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Ancient SunriseŽ Henna for Hair
by Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD
Ancient Sunrise Henna for Hair Chapter 1

Ancient SunriseŽ
Henna for Hair
Ancient SunriseŽ Henna for Hair
Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD

The NEW "Ancient SunriseŽ Henna for Hair" book explores the art, science, techniques, and history of using henna, indigo, and cassia to dye hair.  This book is a timely update of the previous book, "Henna for Hair" by Catherine Cartwright-Jones, to address the problem of the epidemic of para-phenylenediamine sensitization: the increasingly dangerous and widespread allergy to chemical hair dye. 

Separate chapter headings are listed below for your download convenience. Click on each chapter heading cover below to download each PDF file.


You may share information in this book online as long as you cite source and post a link to this URL.  
You may not use this information on any commercial website.


Creative Commons License
"Ancient SunriseŽ Henna for Hair" by Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD is licensed under a
 Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.

Citation format: Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD.  2015.  "Ancient SunriseŽ Henna for Hair" TapDancing Lizard LLC.  tapdancinglizard.com/AS_henna_for_hair/  Accessible also via hennaforhair.com, mehandi.com, and ancientsunrise.com
Ancient Sunrise Henna for Hair Chapter 1

Ancient SunriseŽ Chapter 1
Henna for Hair
: Introduction and the Epidemic of Para-phenylenediamine Sensitization

This chapter discusses the risks of using chemical hair dye, and the epidemiology of  millions of cases of hair dye allergy.  This chapter introduces the solution for allergies to chemical hair dye and associated chemical sensitivities.

Links to specific topics in this chapter:
Ancient Sunrise Plants That Dye Hair

Ancient SunriseŽ Chapter 5
Plants that Dye Hair


This chapter discusses henna, indigo, and cassia, (lawsonia inermis, indigofera tinctoria, and cassia obovata) and the chemistry of each of these dye plants. Understanding the botany of these plants will help you understand how to get the best results from your henna hair dye.

Links to specific topics in this chapter:
Ancient Sunrise Henna and Acidic Mixes

Ancient SunriseŽ Chapter 6
Henna and Acidic Mixes

This chapter discusses the necessary chemistry of mixing henna and cassia with a mildly acidic liquid.  This chapter discusses several sources of fruit acids, and how each has a different effect on henna.

Links to specific topics in this chapter:
Mixing and Testing Your Henna Mix

Ancient SunriseŽ Chapter 7
Mixing and Testing your Henna Mix


This chapter discusses the mixing, dye release, formulation, and testing of a wide range of non-chemical permanent colors from henna, indigo, and cassia.  This chapter includes step-by-step instructions to produce the color you want for your hair.

Links to specific topics in this chapter:
Ancient Sunrise How to Henna Your Hair

Ancient SunriseŽ Chapter 8
How to Henna Your Hair


This chapter has step-by-step instructions for first time users dyeing hair blonde, red, brunette or black with henna indigo, and cassia.

Links to specific topics in this chapter:
Ancient Sunrise Chapter 9 Gray Hair and Roots

Ancient SunriseŽ Chapter 9
Gray Hair and 'Doing Your Roots'


This chapter has step-by-step instructions for maintaining your gray roots as they grow in; dyeing them red, brunette, or black.

Links to specific topics in this chapter:

Ancient Sunrise Lightening Your Hennaed Hair

Ancient SunriseŽ Chapter 10
Lightening your Hennaed Hair


This chapter discusses the application of henna over chemically lightened hair, and chemically lightening hennaed hair.


This chapter demonstrates the technique of highlights with henna and foils.



Ancient Sunrise Henna for Relaxed and Natural Hair

Ancient SunriseŽ Chapter 11
Henna for Relaxed and Natural Hair


This chapter contains step-by-step instructions for using henna, cassia, and indigo to dye relaxed hair, natural hair, and locs.

Links to specific topics in this chapter:




Ancient Sunrise Troubleshooting

Ancient SunriseŽ Chapter 12
Troubleshooting

This chapter provides answers to the most frequent questions from people who henna their hair; these include problems with hard water, slight adjustments in color, getting complete and permanent color, and the occasional surprise.

Links to specific topics in this chapter:
  • Why Are My Cassia and Henna Turning Brownish, or Worse? (hard water problems)
  • Henna and You
    • I Itch
    • Why Is My Urine Green the Morning After Applying Henna? (harmless but startling)
    • I Don’t Have Enough Time
    • My Hair Feels Dry After Henna
    • I Have a Headache
  • Troubleshooting Paste and Application
    • I Missed a Spot.
    • I Want to Slightly Change My Hair Color
    • My Roots did’t Take Up Enough Color
    • I Mixed My Paste and it’s Too Tunny
    • I Mixed My Paste and It Is Too Thick
    • I Mixed My Henna, Got Interrupted, and Forgot About It
  • Understanding the Nature of Henna
    • My Hair Smells Like a Wet Dog
    • Indigo Turned My Hair Green
    • My hennaed hair is getting too dark
    • I Just Hennaed My Hair and It Is Too Orange
    • I Don’t Know What I Have
    • I Made a Mess
    • I Mixed My Indigo, Got Interrupted, and Forgot About It
    • My Forehead and Ears are Orange
    • My Hands are Orange 
    • I Hate This, I Want My Chemicals Back


Ancient Sunrise Henna and Your Health

Ancient SunriseŽ Chapter 13
Henna and Your Health


This chapter discusses the safety and wellness aspects of dyeing your hair with henna: why it is is recommended for pregnant and nursing womenand who should not dye their hair with henna.

Links to specific topics in this chapter



Ancient Sunrise Stylists and Salons

Ancient SunriseŽ Chapter 14
Stylists and Salons

This chapter is directed to stylists who wish to incorporate henna into their salons because they need to serve clients who have become sensitized to chemical hair dye, or they, themselves, have become sensitized to chemicals.

Links to specific topics in this chapter:
  • Stylists and Salons
  • Stylists’ Frequently Asked Questions
    • How Do I Know Who May Be Allergic to Oxidative Permanent Chemical Hair Dye?
    • How Do I Know if the Client Will Like their Color?
    • Can I put henna under the dryer?
    • How Would You Transition a Salon from a Chemical Color to Natural dye?
    • How Can I Get My Clients Interested in Ancient SunriseŽ?
    • Must Clients Stay at the Salon the Whole Time They Are Waiting?
    • What Do I Charge for Dyeing Hair with Ancient SunriseŽ Henna?
    • What Pre-Mixes Does Ancient SunriseŽ Have?
    • How do I prepare Ancient SunriseŽ for clients so I can have it ready when they walk in or need an emergency root job?
    • How Can I Get Consistent Results Every Time?
    • Does Ancient SunriseŽ have classes on how to use the plant powders?
  • Maria’s Advice for Stylists
Ancient Sunrise Henna for Hair Chapter 2

Ancient SunriseŽ Chapter 2
The History of Henna Hair Dye

Part 1: The Evolution and Migration of Henna into Cultural Practices
 
Links to specific topics in this chapter
I expect to complete these final sections by September 2016

Ancient Sunrise Henna for Hair Chapter 2

Ancient SunriseŽ Chapter 2
The History of Henna Hair Dye

coming soon

Part 2: Purity and Power: Henna and the Hammam

Links to specific topics in this chapter

  • Henna in Sixth Century Arab Culture
    • Cultural Expansion
    • Henna and Baraka
    • Purity and Power
  • The Hammam
  • Henna and Menstruation
  • Moorish Culture and Henna in Spain
  • Henna and the Spanish Inquisition
  • Henna and the Persian Hammam
  • Henna and the Ottoman Hammam
  • Henna and the North African Hammam
  • Henna, the Hammam, and Diplomacy
  • The Hammam and the European Imagination
I expect to complete these final chapters by January 2017
Ancient Sunrise Henna for Hair Chapter 2

Ancient SunriseŽ Chapter 2
The History of Henna Hair Dye

coming soon

Part 3: The Transition of Henna into Western Popular Culture: Orientalism, Sexuality, and Suffrage

Links to specific topics in this chapter

  • Henna, Travel and Orientalism
  • Henna, Worldliness, Sexuality, and Suffrage at the turn of the 20th century
  • Henna and Colonial Postcards
  • Henna and Celebrity in the Theater at the Turn of the 20th Century
  • Henna and the Flapper
  • Hollywood and the Redhead
  • Henna and Technicolor
  • Henna Techniques of Hollywood stars
  • Advertising and the Evolution of the Redhead Cliché
I expect to complete these final chapters by June 2017
Ancient Sunrise Henna for Hair Chapter 2

Ancient SunriseŽ Chapter 2
The History of Henna Hair Dye

coming soon

Part 4: The commercial history of henna in the industrialized west: technology replaces tradition

Links to specific topics in this chapter
  • Early Descriptions of Henna Technique in Cosmetology and Beauty Texts
  • Defining the product and trade names in western commercial law
  • Henna in the industrialized marketplace
  • Establishing Trade and Legal Definitions
  • Henna is associated with Egypt
  • Early instructions in mass marketed henna products
  • Henna instructions in early cosmetology textbooks
  • The history of henna hair dye in cosmetology books
  • Henna products: symbols of exoticism and privilege
  • The eclipse of henna by chemical home hair dye kits
I expect to complete these final chapters by January 2018

Ancient Sunrise Henna for Hair Chapter 3

Ancient SunriseŽ Chapter 3
Compound Henna

This chapter discusses the addition of metallic salts and other dyes to henna, and how these created conflicts with chemical hair dye.

I expect to complete these final chapters by January 2019
Chapter 4 Science and Microscopy

Ancient SunriseŽ Chapter 4
Henna Science and Microscopy 

This chapter shows henna at microscopic level, the problems of products presently marketed as 'henna.'

I expect to complete these final chapters by January 2019


Please  check back regularly for new live links.  Thank you for your patience.
Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD
Terms of use:
You must agree to the terms of use to download, print, and use these materials.

All rights reserved under international copyright law.

Terms of use for personal use:

You may not sell, offer for sale, exchange or otherwise transfer these publications.

You may make one (1) printed copy each of these publications for your personal use in the creation of hand rendered ephemeral body decoration. You may not sell, lend, give away or otherwise transfer this copy to any other person for any reason.

You may make one (1) electronic copy each of these publications for archival purposes.  Except for the single (1) permitted print copies and the single (1) archival copy, you may not make any other copies of these publications in whole or in part in any form.

Terms of use for instructional and educational purposes:

You may reprint these books as instructional material to teach a class on henna or related arts. You may reprint these books as instructional material for a private or public school.  You may reprint these books for inclusion in a public library.

You may not sell these books in any format.  You may not sell or give away reprints of these books other than as an instructional material included in a teaching program.  You may not remove copyright statements from any part of these books.  You may not change these books in any way.

If you wish to use The Henna Page “HowTo” books as a textbook for teaching purposes in your classroom, school or public library, please notify Catherine Cartwright-Jones.  Send your notification of educational use of  “The Henna Page “HowTo” series on school or library letterhead to:

Catherine Cartwright-Jones,
TapDancing Lizard Publishing
4237 Klein Ave.
Stow, Ohio, 44224